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by Mark and Kristel
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Hi there at Terhaal,
We would like to thank you for the great trip we’ve experienced by doing the Terhaal Jordan Remote trip with Salem. We’ve seen the most beautiful places, stayed in the most scenic places (like the Romana camp site and the Feinan Ecolodge) and hiked really flabbergasting routes.
Thanks for a great week!
Mark and Kristel |
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To Mette, Ruth, Sarah, Tanya and Eric, I would like to say thank you for your visit to Jordan. We hope you have enjoyed this trip as much as we have enjoyed running it! Also, thanks for all the constructive feedback and tips that you have given us throughout this trip. We have certainly learnt alot.
Special thanks to Sarah and Mette for all the nice photos!Active Jordan is an 11 day tour around Beautiful Jordan. What makes this trip special is all the fun activities (mountain biking, camel riding, camping, hiking/scrambling and canyoning) along the diverse lanscape of the country, mixed with spentaneous cultural interaction and all the sighseeing and unique heritage sites. For more information please Click here.
Wednesday, November 01, 2006 | |
By Nada Momani
Wadi Rum for me wasn't a totally new place, I had been there once before on a school trip, although going with Tala and Rakan was a totally different experience. It came as a surprise to me that I hadn't noticed all these magnificent sites on my first visit to Rum.
It had totally another meaning this time, the sand, the mountains and the never-ending supply of tea.
We reached Wadi Rum at around noon; it was really hot and it was suggested that we go to 'Al-Khazaly' mountain as it would be the best place to go to at that time. We arrived there and found plenty of places in the shade to lie down and have a little nap (though the flies were a little bit annoying).
The night was magnificent; the cold sand, the dinner and the stars! The sky was extravagantly lit with dozens of twinkling stars. I had never seen so many stars before in my life!
Every time when I visit a new site in Jordan I immediately understand why I have this big love for our country. There are some things that you never forget and I know that this trip will be one of the unforgettable events of my life.
Thank you, Tala and Rakan, for this lovely trip. Hopefully you enjoyed our company :).
By Rakan Mehyar
His name is Salem Zalabia, better known as Abu Zhair or Abu Zhayer; a 24 year old Bedouin guy from Rum.
Salem was born in the desert of Rum and has been living there ever since. He literally knows every mountain, sand dune and grain of sand! While his family still lives the traditional Bedouin life,in a goat-hair Bedouin tent grazing goats and herding camels, Salem works in the local tourism industry as a desert guide.
To me, he is more than just a desert guide; he is also a good friend and the best host you can ever have. He's not much of a morning guy as he seldom talks then, but once the sun starts to set Salem starts getting in the mood; the best times I had there were around a little fireplaceafter dinner, chatting with Salem over an endless supply of sweet Bedouin tea.
If you're bored, he entertains you and tells you exciting desert stories spiced up with his wonderful sense of humour. If you're hungry, he prepares the best food you can ever have. If it's cold at night, he makes sure you have enough blankets to keep you warm. If you're in need of a friend, he's there for you; an absolutely genuine and sincere host.
By Ullrich Kastner
Claudia and I stayed for two weeks in beautiful Jordan and the number one on a list that is full of spectacular places is definitely Wadi Rum. There can hardly be a place in the world that has such a fine combination of tranquility, back to the roots, culinary top spot and local ( Jordan) culture.
We stayed for 3 days and 2 nights (clearly not long enough) in a bedouin tent right in the middle of the Wadi. You can feel the wideness and endless features of huge rocks and sandy deserts. From here we explored the surroundings, had fantastic hikes and an extremely funny camel ride through the desert (it was actually more a race, with lot's of yalla, yalla and shouting!).
Hiking is obviously the most practical activity in the Wadi as you could do it for a complete year around and still would have space left to discover. Anyway, having some fantastic local bedouin guide and a little time, we were able to capture the best locations in the most efficient way, without running stressed from one place to the other. A clear advantage of our tour was that it was organized by Rakan, who definitely knows the right guys around. We actually had the exclusive treatment of being the only couple with the local team and therefore had a very personalised experience.
The evenings especially were always close to being perfect. We had local Bedouin BBQ, with lamb grilled under the earth and chicken made over an open fire. It was, honestly, the best meat I ever had! No five star restaurant in Europe could do any better. Sitting in a tent with an open fire and devouring the feast with your fingers is the real experience. Having some sweet tea afterwards (bring some brandy along if you wish) and falling asleep under the stars was heaven on earth.
It is hard to capture in words what the feeling of peace is like when you are out in the desert and it is best to find out yourself anyway. Just make sure you take your time (3 days is minimum) as you will need it to leave all your troubles behind. Try to get a personalised tour with somebody like Terhaal, so you don't get sucked in by a commercialised tour group that can be found at other places. Only that way can you experience the true Jordan.
And by the way, don't think you can get a shower or anything else you are used to from five star hotels. There is nothing like it in the Wadi. But amazingly the sand on your skin keeps you dry and clean...
By Ahmad Hallak
It was 9pm on a cold Thursday night and I was at my sister's house about to be served dinner when my phone rang. It was Tala, suggesting...no...ordering me to go home and pack my things because we were going to the green hills of 'Anjara - Ajloun to stay at an Eco-Lodge for the night and go hiking the next morning. She wanted us to check it out along with the local hiking trails for especially during this time of year when the weather would be wonderful! To make a long story short, Rakan, Tala and couple of friends and I arrived at the Ajloun Eco-Lodge at 11pm that night and I must admit I was pleasantly surprised.
The Eco-Lodge was designed to blend in with the natural environment and it did that perfectly. There were several wood and canvas cabins facing each other on a plain in a heavily wooded area and what added to the allure was that no landscaping whatsoever had been done. It was like walking through a forest and stumbling upon a long ago forgotten settlement reclaimed by nature. Every cabin had four comfortable beds and the Lodge staff supplied us with warm blankets.
The next morning we got up bright and early, washed up in the communal bathrooms and trooped of to get something to eat. Breakfast was a very Spartan affair with Labneh (a kind of yoghurt spread), jam, boiled eggs and lots of tea!
Then we went hiking which was wonderful! Walking along well-trodden trails we walked through past densely packed trees, bushes and boulders on the hillside just below the Lodge. The weather was perfect, the scenery beautiful and the local wildlife fascinating. All kinds of strange little insects and birds flew about busy at work while I saw flowers and plants I had never before seen sporting magnificent colours. It was an exhilarating experience and I was now truly glad that Tala had called me when she had!
By Ahmad Hallak
Day 2
I awoke the next day to the sound of clapping. Surfacing into consciousness from the depths of my weary slumber I uncovered the blanket from my face and looked out. One of the Bedouin hosts was walking around the campsite and waking all the campers up for breakfast. I slowly stood up and realized that I was absolutely starving! I strode over to the still smoldering fire and pouring myself a cup of tea; a miraculous elixir for all the troubles and ailments of the world! A fantastic cup of tea at the very least, others who are less inclined to wax lyrical would suggest. Disregarding to wait for the others, I helped myself to an assortment of jams and Labneh (an Arabic starter specific to the Levant; it is basically strained yoghurt with a bit of salt) spooned over flat Arabic pita bread. Together with an inexhaustible supply of tea I munched away and looked upon the rest of the group slowly appearing from inside tents, over sand dunes and making their way towards the camp fire like moths to a glorious flame (this is how I get when the subject of food comes up!).
Shortly after the breakfast and a little friendly banter, the group-split up and headed into different directions.The Dutch couple on a camel ride, the Slovaks back to Amman and the Belgian group I honestly can’t remember! Rakan, Tala and I, along with our two friends, got into the truck and followed Salem and a colleague in their own pickup truck who was driving a French couple to a popular hiking spot. After a 20 minute drive we arrived at a flat space beside a small mountain where we parked.Salem led the way up towards a mountain plain that dominated the landscape before us whilst his companion stayed behind to prepare our lunch. We walked for 20 minutes before I realized that my headache, which was pounding away in my brain like an army of sledge-hammer wielding rock crushers, would only get worse with the climb. I asked Rakan if he had any headache medicine in his First Aid kit and he said he did but that it was in the truck. He suggested I go back and get it along with the truck while he and Tala waited at the mountain face. I jogged back quickly and was panting only slightly when I reached the truck 10 minutes later (it was all downhill). I rummaged through the truck's supply bin and found the Ibuprofen and swallowed a pill with some water. I then got behind the wheel and started the truck. Driving up the sandy incline I noticed a track leading through a low-rise gorge on my right while straight ahead the path split into two other tracks that also veered to the right and towards the face of the mountain. I hadn’t realized there was more than one path when I was walking up and I was unsure which one the rest of the group had taken. Instinctively I chose the first path to the right and drove into the gorge. Driving along, the sides of the gorge began to rise and the pass began to narrow considerably barely allowing the truck to pass. The gorge also started winding left and right which made me begin to doubt I was on the right path; and then I suddenly turned into a dead end! Crap!! The gorge was to narrow me for me to turn the truck around and I was forced to reverse all the way back, a feat which threatened to undo the effects of the Ibuprofen. Sweating and cursing under my breath, I drove backwards slowly and eventually reached my starting point. I drove upwards past the opening I had just exited and decided that I would take the last path at the top of the inline feeling confidently that this was the path Salem's group had taken. To make a long story short I got stuck in the sand, took the wrong path and decided that I was going back to help with lunch before Rakan and another of our friends appeared just above me. Rakan signaled for me to drive up a steep incline towards him and we eventually drove up to the mountain face together.
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