How I fell in Love with Jordan... again and again... Day Two
Photos by Zein
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By Zein Quandour

Being my most important meal of the day breakfast was the first thing on my mind at 7:30 AM the next morning whilst sitting in my room's outdoor terrace gazing at the bright and peaceful scenery in front of me. My mind was fixed on the traditional breakfast I was about to eat when I realized that Nabil and Zaid were up and talking in their room. After having the most delicious traditional breakfast along with some delicious Dana tea we drove the Belgian family to their next stop – Petra. Zaid made sure we found their preferred Hotel and we carried on to Wadi Araba's Feynan Eco-lodge.

Instead of taking the King's highway we took the tremendously exciting Wadi Namaleh Road. The sun was bright and not a single cloud in the sky. This uninhibited road was taking us from the tops of the Dana cliff to the steep canyons of the vast Wadi Araba. Zaid was driving a four wheeler which made us feel safe (thinking of it now, it really wasn't!). But that was the exciting part; the unpaved roads, the high mountains, the superb colours of all the rock-strewn mountains around us. Nabil, Zaid and I were astounded with the beauty of it all. Two hours and a half later, a road sign appeared 'The Feynan Eco-lodge'. Zaid explained to us that normally visitors parked their cars at the 'Rashadyeh Village' and are driven to the lodge by its employees. Having said that Zaid closed all our windows and told us to hold on tight, and we started our off-road drive to the Feynan eco-lodge. He switched the gear to the four wheel drive and off we went screaming with excitement and laughing out loud. I felt as if Zaid had no idea where we're going and Nabil was excited about the off-road driving and I had this chilling adrenaline rush!! After an exhilarating 20 minute drive, a totally isolated lodge became visible before our eyes.

Slowing down Zaid pointed out Feynan's socio-economic workshops. All I could think of was how this lodge was situated in the middle of nowhere, and how it blended perfectly with the colours of its surrounding arid mountains. We stepped out of the car and walked to the lodge; it was such a blistering sunny day that we couldn't wait to sit down and, of-course, I was thinking of the tea! Being isolated from paved roads and electricity supplies, the lodge is supplied with solar power and completely candle-lit all through the calm nights of Wadi Araba. This absolutely environmentally friendly lodge was unbelievably unique and cozy, such a romantic place in the middle of the desert. Everything about this place was pleasant. We had a tour between the rooms and all around the lodge, had our tea and spent almost two hours walking around before Zaid decided to show us the old Copper Mines. We went for another off-road four-wheel Drive, which again was extremely exciting! Climbing a couple of sand hills and walking along the coloured stones of Wadi Araba, I was swept away with the desert; such an extraordinarily place full of hidden secrets. At a point we saw footprints of a hyena in one of the caves and decided to walk back to our car (I have to admit I was a bit anxious at that point). Another off-road drive led us back to the highway and on our way to the lowest spot on earth - the Dead Sea.

With food being the only thing on my mind (again!!), Zaid stopped at a small shop, bought some food supplies and then we drove for another twenty minutes before stopping the car in the middle of the desert with literally nothing around! We got out of the car, opened the trunk and started setting up a feast of tuna, sardines, mortadella, and potato chips. Eating was our next step! If you allow me to exaggerate, I would have to say that this was one of the best meals I had ever had in my life! Imagine yourself in the middle of the desert with nothing around, eating with two of your friends who also happen to work with you. Now that was something I will never forget!

We reached the Mujib reserve after almost three hours in the car; though it was my second visit to Mujib, this was going to be my first hike. We started walking through the Mujib 'Seeq' or gorge; Zaid guided our hike since he'd done it many times before. I never knew Jordan had so much hidden beauty; this river was Jordan's last wild river! And what a beautiful curving river it is, a perfect blend of rocks, steep canyons, flowing waters with a remarkably rich biodiversity. We walked through the refreshing water, climbed and glided down some rocks; it was really exciting and at some points it got a bit tricky to climb. You just can't stop your self from looking around to make sure you are capturing every single reflection. We reached a spectacular waterfall that seemed to emerge from amongst some huge rocks. We sat there fascinated with the serenity of this place on the lowest point on earth, before hiking back to the Seeq and having one last cup of the delicious traditional tea. Before you know it I was home!

I couldn't stop talking about this trip. It's one of those events in life that make you look at things differently. If I used to love the desert, it is one of my favorite passions now. If nature was important to me, I now have a mission to help in saving it. And if I loved my country, let me tell you that I fell in love with Jordan, again and again.

How I fell in Love with Jordan... again and again...
Photos by Zein
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By Zein Quandour

We were on our way to the Dana Biosphere reserve since 7:30 AM; the desert highway kept me thinking of how Jordan has few natural resources (except phosphate) and how tourism has become a main component to the kingdom's economy. I thought of how vast the desert was, and how people love to spend a day by the sea, when I'd rather spend a day exploring the desert! It has always been a fascinating mystery to me and all through the way Zaid kept on telling me & Nabil "if you think you have loyalty to your job, wait until you experience Dana" Our plan was to visit Dana Reserve, hike to Rummana Campsite, spend the night at the Dana guest house, visit the Feynan eco-lodge the next day and on our way back to Amman stopover the Mujib reserve to do a short hike, and then home sweet home. I was extremely excited; it was my first time to visit any of RSCN's reserves.

We were going down a road with amazing mountain views when Zaid stopped the car and told us to get out! We were laughing and wondering why Zaid's being weird about everything, and then all of a sudden... Silence... literally silence... nothing... not a word. The most amazing view overlooking the old Dana village and the Dana Guest house surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery, I was speechless! Again, Zaid looked at me with a smirk and told me "if you liked this view, wait until we finish our hike" I couldn't believe my eyes, the village looked so authentic and old, the houses were all built to the same height, the village colors were beautiful, the fresh air was refreshing, I didn't want to move. Nabil had the exact same reaction for he had never visited the reserves either. Zaid laughed and told us to move on. We took amazing pictures and carried on till we reached the Dana guest house.

We started our hike after having the deliciously addictive Dana Tea, a mix of nine or so herbs with tea and sugar. We walked through the calm Dana village, walking by the houses and then went through some bushes, a along a fresh water stream, of-course I couldn't resist having a sip of the fresh, clean and cold water. Our guide was this young funny man from Tafeileh; he was simply entertaining and knowledgeable. A very nature oriented family was hiking with us, father, mother, daughter and son; it was their second day at Dana.
We reached a point were it looked like we were walking on the edge of a cliff, it was extremely exciting, and at that point the mountain scenery around us was mind blowing, the colours, the altitudes, the most amazing landscape, I was astonished, Nabil kept on saying "I can't believe my eyes" and Zaid was smiling and telling us about the times that he came here for hikes. It was incredible; at one point we all walked to a high flat rock and sat there for twenty minutes. It was so refreshing the wind could revive a soul. The air was so fresh; I just wanted to sleep there. The calmness and smell of nature… we were trucked by the beauty of Dana; nature seemed to be in perfect harmony with everything around it.

Reaching the Rummana Campsite after almost four hours, the views around the campsite were also breathtaking; a huge Bedouin tent was set in the middle of the camp. We met the chef and the staff; again they were extremely friendly & hospitable.
Lunch was delicious; a variety of mouthwatering traditional salads, and the main dish was vegetable rice with grilled chicken. We all ate and moved to the Bedouin tent were we again had the traditional Dana tea, it was by far the best cup of tea I had in my whole life. I enjoyed every sip!

We went back to the guest house by a shuttle bus (No cars are aloud at lower Dana) the three of us couldn’t stay in our rooms, we were waiting for the sunset and the three of us sat in our rooms' private terraces and watched the amazing sun-set behind the humongous mountains.

Night at Dana is a different experience, the calm night could hypnotize any one, you don't really have to be a nature lover to enjoy Dana, it's even the perfect place to run away from the hectic city life, it’s just a relaxing retreat, a place to revive your soul.
And then at nine PM we had the tasty Dana tea again, I was ready to sleep at that point, my body was so relaxed, I felt like I've been away from Amman for days. The night breeze was soothing, and the tranquil silence was simply ideal!
Zaid suggested going to the Dana Hotel, a very nice locally managed hotel in the middle of the Dana village to have some argeeleh, we walked to the village it was so peaceful and the warmth of the Cafe's owner was incredible, he offered us some tea, and we stayed there and talked to the locals for almost two hours. When we asked for our bill the owner told us that brothers don't pay money to each other, totally disagreeing of us paying our bill made me think of how all the locals I met today were generous, warm and hospitable.
Off we went for a sweet good night sleep...

This great trip doesn't finish here… an outstanding experience, a trip I'll never forget; I was greatly passionate towards the magnificent hidden treasures of Jordan.
I will update you with the rest of the trip... it was an experience to remember...


The Dead Sea's Revenge
Photos by FoEME
By Friends of the Earth Middle East

Humans have been responsible for activities that have led to the drying up of the Dead Sea for over half a century, and the Sea has had enough. Some say the time has come for the Dead Sea to take its revenge against the people who have abused it, referring mostly to the holes that have been appearing in the ground surrounding the salt water body.

While this is only one of several phenomena associated with the constantly receding water level at the Dead Sea, it may be most significant in terms of its effect on continued human activity in the area. Few sinkholes were observed before 1980, but since then they have spread throughout the entire area, although far more noticeably in the south.

Sinkholes are holes appearing in the ground that can be as large as 25m in diameter and 20m in depth. They are created gradually through a mechanism of underground salt dissolution. The significant drop in the lake's water level is matched by a parallel groundwater level drop, which results in an increasing intensity of water flow. The diagonal interface between the salty water of the Dead Sea and the less saline groundwater is pushed downwards and eastwards. The imbalance of the hydrological system exposes the salt stratum to unsaturated groundwater i.e. the water dissolves the salt and spaces are created in this layer. The salt layers have a geo-technical capacity of creating and preserving spaces. Eventually the upper layer (the ceiling) of the hole collapses.

The authorities refer to the sinkholes as impending catastrophes; there is no way of predicting where and when a sinkhole might appear. In 2001 a large sinkhole emerged on the main road in Ein Gidi only seconds after a bus full of tourist drove by. It was 20m deep and its bottom diameter was 30m. That time they were lucky.

The Jordan Valley Authority has so far compensated the owners of 30 units of agricultural lands in the Safi region whose lands have collapsed due to sinkholes this year.
At this moment in time experts cannot point to any site along the Dead Sea shores and claim with any certainty that it is safe with no potential for the appearance of sinkholes on its surface.
Perhaps the danger and hindrance presented by the sinkholes phenomena could serve as a catalyst for the re–evaluation of policies in this region. The mere shrinkage of the Dead Sea has not stirred official bodies much, but perhaps this potential disaster and the lack of any planning and development activities will bring about more government initiative and policy making.

Wadi Rum: A Second Impression
Photos by Nada
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By Nada Momani

Wadi Rum for me wasn't a totally new place, I had been there once before on a school trip, although going with Tala and Rakan was a totally different experience. It came as a surprise to me that I hadn't noticed all these magnificent sites on my first visit to Rum.

It had totally another meaning this time, the sand, the mountains and the never-ending supply of tea.

We reached Wadi Rum at around noon; it was really hot and it was suggested that we go to 'Al-Khazaly' mountain as it would be the best place to go to at that time. We arrived there and found plenty of places in the shade to lie down and have a little nap (though the flies were a little bit annoying).

The night was magnificent; the cold sand, the dinner and the stars! The sky was extravagantly lit with dozens of twinkling stars. I had never seen so many stars before in my life!

Every time when I visit a new site in Jordan I immediately understand why I have this big love for our country. There are some things that you never forget and I know that this trip will be one of the unforgettable events of my life.

Thank you, Tala and Rakan, for this lovely trip. Hopefully you enjoyed our company :).




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